I’m going to be talking about this in an upcoming video, as soon as I can figure out why my PAHUD stats never show up on my videos, but I think it’s worth posting about as well. At this point in my poker career, I don’t really think too much about seat selection — I can just look at a game and a few players and tell whether or not it’s going to be worthwhile. But when I was looking at a few microlimit tables the other day, I realized that there’s a lot that goes into the calculation of whether or not a table will be worthwhile, and it’s just become automatic for me — so I’m going to try to talk about it here and dissect it so you can follow along.
Here’s generally my process. I sit down, and see who I recognize. Generally I’ll recognize regular players, who are often “TAG” or at least have a semblance of understanding of how to play preflop, first. If the table is populated by them, I won’t even bother sitting. But if there are a few spots I don’t recognize, I’ll often sit down, assuming I can get a spot on the left of any of these unknowns. This is going to be true moreso if I recognize any of the TAGs as being decent at table selection; if there are two or three TAGs playing together and two unknowns, and I can get a good seat (more on this later) on the unknowns, it’s very likely that the TAGs who are sitting together are in that game because of the “unknown” players.
If, through datamining or just through playing for a while, I have stats on any of these unknowns showing them to be loose and predictable in any fashion (this includes both very loose-aggressive — 50/20+ in PT parlance — and loose-passive), then I’m going to immediately lock up a seat and play as much as possible. In the golden days of online poker, the entire table would be filled with players like this; nowadays, it’s much more common that you’ll only find one or two really weak spots at a table otherwise filled with seemingly competent players.
It’s been covered a lot in posts by lots of different players, but I’m going to give a basic outline for why you want these players on your right and tight players on your left. It’s pretty simple, once you think about it, but a lot of people don’t practice it as well as they think. The first concept is what most people refer to as the first right of isolation. When a bad player enters the pot (often by limping) and you have a playable hand, like A9o, or QJo, KTo, etc., you’ll often want to get head’s up vs. their range of worse hands with position on them. This is usually the case with decent offsuit Aces and other offsuit broadway hands; your hand will play well head’s up and because you are up against a predictable player, it is easy for you to extract bets when ahead and not lose much when behind.
It’s probably better if I illustrate this concept in example form:
Situation #1: Bad player openlimps in the HJ. You have position on him, and are in the CO with A8s. Your hand has good equity vs his range of hands, especially when you get it head’s up, so you raise; the tight-aggressive player on your left (the Button) is now forced to fold the vast majority of his hands — even ones that are playable vs your specific hand (KTo-KQ; A8-AT, QJ&JT, etc.). Now you get the benefit of having the best hand and having position. Even if the blinds enter the pot, you’ll have good equity often and initiative, allowing you to take down a number of flops where you normally wouldn’t be sure of “where you are” (Q62, K73, etc).
Situation #1: Roles reversed. Bad player limps in the HJ. TAG player raises next in. You’re on the Button. Now your range of hands that you can play is severely limited; you can’t overlimp with 55, you can’t isolate with 66 or 77 or JTs — you have to fold a lot of hands that would normally be very playable vs. a bad player.
I’m really only briefly touching on this but I think it’s very important for people to learn: when you have a predictable player in a game, you will almost always want immediate position on him. You want tight players on your left so that your Cutoff and Button steals can be somewhat more liberal, where you will always have position on them if you get into a blind war.
While there are a lot of factors that have an effect on where you’d ideally like to be seated in different sorts of 6max games, the basic idea that I’ve mentioned here — get on the left of bad or even unknown players, and on the right of TAGs and TPs — will get you through many a 6max game that would normally look less forgiving had you not understood seat selection.